Posts Tagged ‘flapper’

I usually don’t like to double up with SwingFashionista.com but I just HAVE to re-blog some images from Elisa Palomino’s Fall 2010 RTW collection, that Jo posted.  Who is Elisa Palomino? Though her own label is a new thing, she’s no newcomer to the fashion scene.  She has been the designer behind Moschino’s Cheap & Chic collections, and the head of the John Galliano studio, during which time she also worked for Dior. She was studio director at Cavalli and is now the Vice-president of Design at Diane Von Furstenberg. Serious credentials! She’s also a 1920s style enthusiast and a collector of vintage Japanese kimonos, as you can see.  Elisa is the lady with the long, straight black hair in a few of these pics…

Beautiful 1920s styling for this shoot by Wendy Bevan for the Financial Times, September 2009.

Love the dress, the petals of the skirt are wonderful. But why do the fashion houses feel that they need to mitigate their aesthetics for the runway? An undeniably 1920s-inspired gown, so why the punky hair and drag queen makeup? Why not fingerwaves or a Louise Brooks bob? Rosy cheeks and a red rosebud mouth? The dress is going to appeal to women with a vintage aesthetic in mind, why not create a whole catwalk look that would appeal to them also. Do you think if a celebrity starlet wears this gown on the red carpet, she’ll match the hair and makeup? Hell no, she’ll have soft curls and red lipstick, I guarantee it.

This collection was an interesting re-imagining of the fashion house’s origins, and a glamorous mish-mash of styles from the 1920s to the 1950s.  The 1946 Dior’s New Look peplum was exaggerated into balloons of fabric beneath belt-cinched waists. Circle skirts, blouson sleeves, oversized coats, wasp waists and tea dresses were all in the mix. Cloche style hats and pencil-thin arched brows gave a nod to the 1920s. Corsets were occasionally sighted beneath sheer gowns, and a 1950s hourglass silhouette was fairly ubiquitous, save for a few slimmer 1930s styles. Patent leather, sheer fabrics and dark lipstick gave the whole show a more modern – and risque – feeling.